Arrogant Australians Abroad?

An interesting article in today's Age by Claire Buckis on arrogant Australian travellers.

"AUSTRALIANS only care what's between the barbecue and the beach!" shouted an Irishman from across the table in Santiago, Chile, after he heard my accent. I wasn't surprised or offended by his opinion, because after travelling around the world for more than six months, it's one of the kinder ones I've heard about Australians overseas.

Among the backpacking crowd, at least, it seems Australian travellers are rapidly gaining a reputation abroad, and not as the friendly easy-going types we would prefer to be known as.

It may be that some of our other national characteristics — which we tend to play up on when we're overseas — are getting us into trouble. We're known for our fond relationship with a cold beer, we're known for our love of sport. But a fond relationship with beer can lead to a reputation for drunkenness, a love of sport leads to a reputation for being over-zealous. For every thoughtful Aussie overseas who learns the language and gets to know the locals, there are plenty more intent on wringing the party time out of every last millisecond of their holiday..." - The Age, December 10

Singapore, Day One

Yesterday was, upon reflection, one of the most gruelling days that we've had on the road so far. The loooong trip from KL to Singapore on an uncomfortable train with no food, then being shuffled into immigration (a very undramatic border crossing, with no signage or flags to signify the cross-over) and customs, back onto a testosterone-filled train with some drunken guys, and finally being dumped (and paying hansomly for it) by a mini-bus driver over the wrong side of the city only to have to negotiate our way around the public transport system in a whole new country.. We finally checked into a hostel some twelve hours after we'd departed from KL. Ugghh.

Aside from all the moaning and groaning, we're really chuffed to have made it to Singapore, finally, our last stop on this tour of South-East Asia (+ Taiwan). It's been a fantastic experience, and we've slowly begun the process of reflection and introspection.

On that note, here are some of our stand-out happy memories of this tour:


Having a great conversation with a German urologist about his pseudo-homo-erotic obsession with George Michael, or more specifically, the lyrics, melody and video clip of the Wham classic 'Wake Me Up Before You Go-Go.' - Cat Ba Island, Gulf of Tolkin, Northern Vietnam.

Watching our tuk-tuk driver try to explain what a ping-pong show was (in limited English and awesome body language) - Bangkok, Thailand.

Sim explaining to a Dutchman how to body-surf, which, once he did right, had him squealing "Hooray for the Dutchman!" at the top of his lungs. - Mui Ne, Southern Vietnam.

Getting drunk off countless mojitos to celebrate the beginning of December and the joys of being on a tropical island. - Ko Tao Island, Thailand.

And onwards and upwards. We've done plenty in this past nine months, that's for sure.

So today we're taking it pretty easy, spending the morning and early afternoon at the Asian Civilisations Museum in the Colonial District of Singapore. It's a beautiful, modern setting which integrates so many critical elements of South-East Asian culture (migration, language, agriculture, textiles, religion, climate...) A tough ask, really, to blend each of these elements whilst setting each culture apart. It's a fascinating place, and absolutely achieved its aims. I'd say we enjoyed it as much as we did the Museum of World Religions in Taipei (which is to say, a hell of a lot.)

Singapore itself is a fascinating place, and we've warmed to it much more than its counterpart, KL. We've been speaking Chinese and enjoying that immensely, and eating as much Indian food as we can muster (simple pleasures). It's almost like a sanitized, not quite as intense version of Taipei City, with plenty of greenery and places to sit and watch the world go by. All in all, a really liveable SE Asian city.

We're hoping to head out to Singapore's Zoo later this evening to see its relatively rare collection of animals (you wouldn't think so, for a city-state only 605 square km?) but they hold night tours, so hopefully we'll be up for it. Otherwise, there's plenty to see, do, smell, eat and encounter here, here, the final leg of our journey.

Hello Singapore.. and Happiest Birthday Emms!

Three minutes left on an internet count-down.. But a brief note.. After a full day on a train, we have left Malaysia and have safely arrived in Singapore. We're staying at a great hostel (though dorm beds!) and are looking forward to dinner in little India tonight and a couple of days of full sight-seeing.

Happiest 22nd Birthday Emms, love you muchly and in our thoughts today! :)

Goodbye Thailand, Hello Malaysia, and a Few Notes on Transport

Firstly, I better mention that we've successfully arrived in Malaysia's humid capital, Kuala Lumpur. It's perhaps lesser of a a feat than the methods by which we got here, which I should really write about before our trip winds down.

From Ko Tao Island (ohh, blissful island) to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia:

- Boat (not a catamaran, thank God!) from the island to Chumphon, 2 hours.
- Overnight sleeper train from Chumphon to Bangkok, 10 hours.
- Taxi from city centre to Airport, 45 minutes.
- Flight from Thailand to Malaysia, 2 hours.
- Bus from outskirts of city into KL city centre, 1.5 hours.
- Metro (light rail) from KL city centre into Chinatown area.

.. back to back travelling. All in all, nearly 22 straight hours. Needless to say, Sim and I were absolutely knackered (and not in the best of spirits after fruitless hotel searches) upon our arrival. It had to be some of the most gruelling travelling I've ever done, but wow, what an experience (also one of the best showers ever). :)

In fact, Sim and I counted the modes of transport that we've taken in the past six weeks and couldn't believe how many there were.. For your viewing pleasure (and general interest):

- Taxis (ubiqitous)
- Tuk-tuks (Hanoi, Vietnam and Bangkok, Thailand)
- Refurbished junk (Halong Bay, Vietnam)
- Back of a motorbike (Dalat, Vietnam)
- Kayaks (Halong Bay, Vietnam)
- Cyclos (Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam)
- Buses (everywhere!)
- Metro and light rail (Bangkok, Thailand and KL, Malaysia)
- Planes (too many)
- Dune buggy (Ko Tao Island, Thailand)
- Utes with benches in the tray (Ko Tao Island, Thailand)
- Catamaran - the infamous catamaran - (Ko Tao Island, Thailand)
- Regular boat (Ko Tao Island, Thailand)
- Snorkelling fins (?) (Ko Tao Island, Thailand)

We have a couple of full days in KL in which we're planning on seeing all the key tourist attractions (the Museum, the gallery, Little India, the markets and more of Chinatown), before finishing up with an Eiffel-Tower-esque smooch under the Petronas Towers. :)

Ko Tao at Sunset

Ko Tao Foreshore, Leese's 22nd Birthday

Ko Tao Island, Gulf of Thailand

Ahh, Bangkok. Reading the last post, how long ago it feels!

We are now in a place called Ko Tao Island, off the Gulf of Thailand. To get here, we traveled through the cities of Hua Hin and Chumphon, which were both pretty disappointing towns heading south from Bangkok. So from Chumphon, we decided to take a catamaran into the Gulf.. which seemed like a good idea at the time..

Ive not been on a catamaran before, and figured that they were just like big boats designed to cut through the choppy waters of the open sea. Ha! Literally moments into the trip, the boat heaved 1-2m up.. and then down.. up.. and down again...

Simon didn't last five minutes, and headed out with the other terribly motion sick passengers to the back of the boat, where it was clear from its set-up that this problem happened all the time. I was stuck in the cabin, too unsure of my stomach to move - like everyone else, it seemed - until the scenes of 'Mr Bean's Holiday'(in which he chews on seafood) completely did me in, and sent me packing for the back of the boat too.

Courtesy of a motion sickness tablet I had taken, I kept my stomach down.. Unlike the other thirty passengers. Each of us, sickened by each other's company and the sights and smells, were comforted by the crew who told us that 'it was a perfect day for sailing'.. Making me wonder what a less-than-perfect day may have been like. We later found out that catamarans are designed for flat bays rather than open seas, so no surprises really.

It's definitely one of those stories that now seems funny, but at the time, had all the nuance and atmosphere of a prison camp setting, with no refrain for two whole hours.

Nonetheless, we made it, safe and sound (if a little stumbly and unsure of ouselves), and have since navigated our way into a beach bungalow and days of sweet, idyllic paradise.

Ko Tao is a beautiful island of white sandy beaches, quiet shores, lots of trekking or motor-biking, and a certain rustic appeal (away from the main tourist areas). Sim and I have since lazed the days away drinking cocktails, going for morning and afternoon swims, having bbqs on the beach for dinner, reading, playing Scrabble and mini-golf.. All those hard things. It was in this style that we celebrated my 22nd birthday, too. Thanks to all those that had us in your thoughts!

Today, we added another activity to our lazy days, by hiring a dune buggy and going trekking around the island on its dusty, unpaved paths. Brilliant! Sore bums but had a great time. It was my first driving experience and has definitely incited some motivation for me to get a license. :)

Tomorrow is our final day on the island, before heading back on the 3rd to Bangkok and then flying to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. New adventures to be had soon!